The extraordinary rise of the drag brunch.

Just May at Dalston Superstore. (Photograph: Teri Pengilley/The Guardian)

It is 1pm on an unseasonably warm Sunday in February, and I am eating a BLT in Dalston, east London, while a 6ft 4in drag queen dressed as Geri Halliwell questions a bearded Scottish man about when he last got laid…