How James Beard’s gayness influenced American food culture

James Beard (PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL CHILD. © SCHLESINGER LIBRARY, RADCLIFFE INSTITUTE, HARVARD UNIVERSITY. ID W584788-5")

Most people who follow the food world are probably aware of the James Beard Award honoring chefs, restaurants, and writers for their culinary contributions. But fewer people these days are familiar with Beard himself: known as the “Dean of American cookery,”…